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Friday, January 24, 2014

Rolex Sub Homages

The Rolex Submariner is one of the most iconic watch model from the Oyster Perpetual lineup, with its variant the Sea Dweller goes a long way back and have a rich heritage and history to its name. Its features are very impressive too, boasting capabilities as a tool watch that is built specifically for diving. Over the years, iconic individuals have been spotted wearing the Submariner; Sean Connery; in James Bond movie was never seen without one in the earlier movies.

Being described by a must-have collection in a watch collector's arsenal, it may not be easy to actually own one due to its hefty price tag nowadays. But of course, I'm sure we wouldn't go to the extent of purchasing counterfeits and smearing the good name of the revered model.

Many watch companies, even reputable ones have adopted the timeless design and using the Sub as a template for their own models. and that was when Homage models were introduced. A chance for watch lovers to have a feel of having one of the world's most inspiring model and not burning a huge hole in the pocket. But is a Homage Model worthy of matching to the real deal? I'll do a brief comparison of the Rolex Submariner (w Cyclops Date Magnifier) and two of the more popular sub-stitute from different watchmakers.



Case Diameter : 40mm
Crown : Screw-down
Beats per hour : 28, 000
Water Resistance : 300m
Crystal : Sapphire (Scratch Resistant)
Calibre : In-house Rolex 3135 movement
  VS


Steinhart Ocean 1



Slowly gaining a solid fanbase over the years, the Steinhart Ocean 1 is a remarkable watch revered by collectors as one of the best homages ever made. Made in Switzerland and powered by a ETA 2824-2 caliber that is at 28, 000 beat per hour producing a 8 ticks/sec sweep, which is the same BPH as the 3135 caliber. Many aspects are true to the Sub; WR to a dept of 300m, Cyclops date magnifier, "Mercedes" hour hand, 120 clicks Bezel. The only difference is the case diameter at 42mm instead of 40mm,  might be a bother for die-hard Rolex fans. Steinhart applied a double coat of anti reflection on a sapphire crystal on the inside, effectively reducing glare when used under bright surroundings.

MIIK Kingston



This Kingston model by MIIK is a no-nonsense watch that is inspired by the Submariner. It is very popular among watch collectors, due to incorporating new elements into the design while inheriting most of the No-Date Sub's overall look and characteristics. What makes this homage stands out as a favorite is that they employ technical features like a double domed sapphire crystal. A normal (single) domed crystal will give a clear view of the time underwater, but on land there are certain angles that will distort the vision of the dial. This application would eliminate the drawback while maintaining the initial utility of the domed crystal.

Not forgetting to mention that it has anti reflection coat applied on the underside as well. Triple gasket screw-down crown is used for a more effective measure to prevent water from seeping in. Caliber is a Swiss ETA 2824-2, 28, 000 BPH , hack setting automatic with manual winding function. The few shortcomings compared to the Sub are having a 200m WR instead of the Sub's 300m, and a 60 click bezel.

Tuesday, January 21, 2014

Watch Bracelets

Watches come in different shapes and sizes, the accompanying bracelets / straps are no exception. In this post I'll be writing about few types of bracelets and strap types seen on the market nowadays. The relationship between a watch and bracelet would not vary much, given the standard pairing patterns according to the type and function of the watch itself. For example, dive watches would usually come with either a metal bracelet or rubber strap, due to the nature of the material that is suitable for the sport. Of course, it all boils own to personal preference and many people choose to swap the factory strap for an after-market strap for various factors; functions, aesthetics, comfort to name a few.

Metal Bracelet

Here are a few styles of metal bracelets commonly found on today's watches; the more common style are mostly popularised by Rolex. They are very functional and easy to match, as they can be used for activities ranging from sports to  more formal occasions. Widely available, watch companies often offer metal bracelet options on many of their watch models. Mostly constructed out of stainless steel, maintenance and cleaning of the bracelet is simple and usually does not require additional care.




Presidential 


Oyster


Jubilee


Shark Mesh


Military Straps


Bond Styled Nato on a Rolex Sub


Leather Nato Strap

Fashioned in a strap with two fixed metal rings and a securing buckle, these military straps are commonly known as a Nato or ZULU strap. It is cheap, durable, comes in different materials and a myriad of different colours and styles. Not only do they look good, they are also known for its signature functionality which utilises a simple yet genius application with the strap passing through the spring bar, going under the case and out of the bottom spring bar. In any case when any of the spring bars broke or come off, the strap is still secured to the other untouched spring bar, thus preventing the watch from falling to the ground. Choices are mainly the Nato Strap, which has an additional piece of material and metal ring attached to the main strap that provides a more securing fit to the wrist, and the ZULU strap which does not have the extra feature. Another trait about these straps are that they usually come in a longer length enabling to wrap over diving suits easily, serving as a great after-market strap for dive watches.


Tuesday, January 14, 2014

Great watches under $500

I've been looking through reviews and recommendations on watches for quite some time now, so i reckon i could come up with one on my own as well. Below listed are a few watches which i feel is well worth the money and of course good quality in terms of craftsmanship, movement, brand image, design and so on for the price paid.



Tianjin Seagull 1963

Once a military issue of the China Air Force watch, this timepiece is back as a revised edition that rich in history dated back into the 1963s. It is a hand wind chronograph with superb details such as the chinese characters found on the dial, the special colour combination on the hands and down to the packaging box of the watch itself.



Seiko Orange Monster

An iconic watch in the Seiko Diver Line, sets itself apart from other conventional Rolex Submariner diver due to its unique silhouette. It compromises of features that aid in every aspect of diving, utilising domed Hardlex crystal,LumiBrite, clear distinguishable markings on a bright coloured dial to ensure easier visual on the time under watch. On top of that, a 120-click bezel and 200m resistance makes it a true ISO rated divers watch that is great in quality but not hard on the wallet.



Orient Esteem

The Esteem is a classy dress watch that is loved by Orient collectors. A beautiful case with an open heart design which shows a part of the semi skeleton movement, which is a really nice feature that brightens up the otherwise plain dial. Also, Orient movements are built in-house and it is known for its accuracy so time keeping is made easier. Equipped with a leather strap, it gives a subtle and elegant look to the watch which can easily fit in a casual or formal occasion.




Orient Ray

Next on the list also comes from Japanese watchmakers Orient, dubbed the Ray. Very much like its predecessor the Orient Mako, it packs an array of features built for scuba diving and is great for day to day activities as well. It comprises of the standard screw-down crown, day/date display, bilingual language option(date), unidirectional bezel and boasts a 200m water resistance. As mentioned on the above Orient Esteem, they are powered by an in-house movement, which is noted for their accuracy without regulation. The Orient Ray is also very versatile for various occasions, able to match a dressy outfit when needed. It is a great value-for-money watch that will last for a good amount of years to come.